Shit Goes South in Shanghai
“Good thing you got to us before this got any worse,” said the doctor. As she prepared my vein, my disdain for needles surfaced, and I let my mind drift off to how the entire mess started.
I was finding it hard to believe that, only a few hours prior, we were having the time of our lives on top of Shanghai. That night – jumping around the skyscrapers – my self-diagnosed “bad cold” was getting even worse, but I wasn’t going to let it get in our way.
Mistake #1 = Being stupid. I knew, I just knew from the very beginning – four/five days prior – that it wasn’t the “bad cold” I was telling myself (and Caanan) it was. There was not the gradual onset that accompanies most colds that I’ve had. But, I unwisely chose to not listen to my body. For several days.
Then, in the middle of the night after our crazy-fun evening on the town, I shot up in bed. I was coughing uncontrollably and producing mouths full of phlegm. Next came the violent shaking. It was so bad that, when I attempted to lift my head from the pillow to cough, my teeth would clank together painfully. Then came the nausea.
“Something is really wrong with me,” I said to Caanan.
I knew I needed to see a doctor. My only fear was actually getting to a doctor without coming completely undone on the way. We did a trial walk down the hall between bouts of sickness and figured I’d be able to make it if we timed the 3-mile trip just right.
Mistake #2 = Being unprepared. We didn’t scout out our China resources ahead of time. We had no clue where to go for assistance, and our hotel was no help (that’s another story altogether).
We wasted a lot of time in the middle of the night trying to figure out where and how to get help because we embarked on this adventure completely clueless regarding how heathcare and emergency services work in China. We ended up choosing the closest major hospital we could find. Well, it seemed smart.
When we went into the expansive urgent care center, no one could help because no one spoke any English. It was a nightmare. This is me on the phone with someone the receptionist called for assistance in translating.
The woman on the other end of the phone only knew the word “hello” to which I responded “I need help” over and over. Which brings us to…
Mistake #3 = Making assumptions. Assuming “everything would be easy” even if something did go wrong in the biggest city in the world – the emerging global capital. A lot of people would speak English at a hospital, right? Wrong.
After a lot of time at the reception desk, it was determined that no one in the multiple story hospital building could help. A doctor, recognizing my symptoms as serious, said (in motions and broken English) that he had found someone at another branch of the hospital who could speak English well enough to treat me.
Concerned about my condition, he accompanied us to the other hospital. That’s him on the phone telling the doctor to be ready for my arrival. That’s me double fisting water and thinking “I can’t be-fucking-lieve this is happening right now.”
When we got to the second hospital, they were busy so started treating me and running tests in a waiting area.
Finally, after a tense few hours, the doctor sat down with me to provide the fascinating and disturbing details of what was happening inside my body. She only drilled down far enough to determine that I had caught a nasty bacteria that was sending my body into a progressively severe state. This is something that, without treatment, would have gone from “serious to severe,” she said.
Learn from my mistakes:
1) You know your body. If your sickness feels unusual, it probably is. Get help. Your adventure is not as important as your health.
2) It doesn’t matter if you are traveling to New York City or Shanghai or Lusaka, scout out resources – at least loosely – ahead of time. A big city does not ensure ease.
3) Don’t assume. This happened in Shanghai, not a village. Know the basics of the language. Arrive equipped.
My recovery took a big toll on the rest of our itinerary. Our primary goal quickly became getting well enough to get back to Beijing for our onward journey back to the United States. No more bravado, no more “I don’t need to rest” denial.
The silver lining in all of this? The total cost for all the consultations, tests, and three hardcore medications was only 99.36 USD.
Are you healthy now??
Yes! It was a rough week or so, but all is better now.
I’m so relieved you’re feeling better, Kent! While I’ve been fortunate enough to never have gotten really sick while traveling, I can’t imagine how scary it must have been to feel so badly and not know how to fix it and not be able to find someone who knew how to fix it. Hope you’re recovering and taking care of yourself. xoxoxo
Thankfully, I feel much better. It was a rough week – thanks in large part to my waiting so long to admit that what was happening was not “normal” sick. It was my body’s brilliant way of saying, “You wanna play tough, I’ll show you tough!”
And, yes, feeling so crappy, not knowing our resources, going to a hospital that couldn’t help – all made me feel very vulnerable that day,
Scary situation (and one of my biggest fears about solo travel). Glad you were finally able to get the care you needed….. at a totally affordable price.
Hated that day but loved the price.
Good point about solo travel. It’s even more important to be prepared. At least I had Caanan to run “Shanghai hospital” web searches while I moaned and groaned on the floor.
Oh my gosh, scary!! Just goes to prove you can never assume anything when you’re traveling.
I hope you’re feeling better now!
No, you can’t. It was actually good to be reminded of that in a place where, glitches aside, we could get help reasonably easily.
I read this dreading to see the words “we went to Parkway”… thank goodness you didn’t! When I lived in Shanghai I had a friend visit me and she suddenly came down with agonizing stomach pains, so I took her to the one place I knew could speak English — this expat hospital chain called Parkway. In the end it wasn’t anything serious, but to have the consultation and a test or two came up to $700! Glad to hear you’re okay now and that the local hospital worked out!
Okay… so we came out in really good shape on price.
A bacteria, therefore something you can’t get a vaccine for…
I’m quite nervous about things like that in China (actually I was there only once so far, but I will go again), and everywhere else you can’t get to actually talk to people who are supposed to help you.
Happy ending for you, that’s what really counts!
Honestly, we still can’t get over the fact that we went to a large facility where no one could speak English. Again, that’s our fault (see #2 and #3, above), but we were still astounded.
After all of the tests, it was so interesting to learn what was going on with my body. I’ve never had a US doctor take so much time explaining. Basically, she showed us all of the numbers associated with my blood work and what certain numbers being out of whack meant. Again, because I had already waited too long to be treated, she didn’t want to take the extra time to isolate the exact bacteria. She said, “the good news is that it’s not a virus, so you’re not contagious.” Small wins.
What a scary sounding bacteria, and all the worse for being in an unfamiliar environment! Glad you are ok now.
We remember hanging out with you this summer and telling you how this exact thing is among our biggest fears when traveling.
Scary episode, we are just off to Shanghai in a few days. I think I will be looking up some resources before I set off now. Glad you are fighting fit again.
If anything happens, just get in touch with us
I think, at this point, we’re experts. Hmmm, I see a new blog.
Oh how awful for you! I wish I’d known you were there. I would have tried put you in touch with an expat blogger I know there. Do you guys have travel insurance with one of those help lines?
Oddly enough, the one time we were in China (15 years ago) I also got very, very sick. I ended up with walking pneumonia. We had some number to call that put us in touch with a clinic with an English speaking doctor in Hong Kong so my experience was nowhere near as terrifying as yours.
Yes, we’re big believers in travel insurance – http://www.novacationrequired.com/2010/11/a-case-for-travel-insurance/ – and had a great experience. That’s another interesting part of the story that’s deserving of its own post. AND, as it turns out, will make us look even dumber in terms of how things went down. Stay tuned.
Geez, I’m relieved that everything worked out for you. Lately I’ve been addicted to that show “Monsters Inside Me” about parasites around the world and it’s kind of terrifying to think about. But the fact that no one spoke English at the hospital is even scarier. Foreign hospital stories always have at least one nugget of good news when the cost of services is discussed. The U.S. could take a lesson there!
I know, under $100 for all of that. Lucky us.
When the doctor said “now I will get the accountant and you will pay” (no joke, that’s EXACTLY what she said) we got a little nervous – and may have considered running, had I felt better
Glad that you’re well enough to write this.
Oh, definitely – and thankfully I was never unable to function. Even when I had “bed rest” for about a week, I was able to work (and eat a bit!). So, looking at the big picture, no big deal at all. Plus, our clients were thrilled
The only real downside was having our travel/sightseeing plans significantly altered. Again, a small price to pay.
One thing bad about China is poor communication skills of the people. This is where India is great, many people would speak English but then it was a British Colony.
It’s our fault that we couldn’t communicate, but it was frustrating.
Wow, scary. I’m so glad you were able to get help and are okay now, Kent. I’m with Stephanie – that’s one of my biggest fears about solo travel. I always try to research the answer to “Where would I go if I got sick?” I’ve never had to use that information (thank God), but I feel better knowing I have it. I’m so glad you weren’t alone when this happened.
Please let this post reinforce that smart practice, Gray. We are embarrassed to – as “expert” travelers – admit our stupidity and ill preparedness.
As we’ve said on this site before… you just never know.
Guys, this is really shocking. I’m most concerned since A) you live great, healthy lives and B)how scary it must have been trying to deal with this when no one can understand you. I am glad things are better, but still concerned. I just want to give you a big hug right now!
On a lighter note, didn’t you pack the card I gave you at TBEX with the pictures on it?
Thanks, Ben – I think that your point “A” is what kept me from being admitted to the hospital. Waiting so long to see a doctor had sent my body to the edge, which – according to the doctor – others may not have been able to function through.
It’s a horrible feeling when no one understands you and you are in a vulnerable situation. When the nurse(?) handed me the phone I was in disbelief. Then, when the doctor had to take us to another hospital, I was beyond disbelief. Keep in mind – although the pictures don’t communicate it – it was NOT a pretty picture.
Oh, and we DID use the picture chart you gave us throughout China. When this happened, we were looking for a picture that adequately communicated “Help, I feel like I am going to die!” Unfortunately, that isn’t covered
Glad to see you haven’t lost your sense of humor.
Glad you’re feeling better and got the care you needed. I got very sick alone in Mexico and used the State department website to find a list of English-speaking doctors. I don’t have the link on me, but it was a lifesaver. I found an amazing clinic with great English-speaking doctors, but it was a scary experience for sure!
Nasty flu is quite common is China. I was prescribed Shuanghuanglian Liquid and it worked really well – next time, get yourself to a pharmacist and get some!
Um, I’m hoping this doesn’t happen again!
Quite a bargain in the end, but what a risk. I’m afraid I would have made the same assumptions. I am actually surprised that it was so difficult to find someone who spoke English there. Lesson learned. Glad it all worked out OK!
Makes me wish we would have been in Girona meeting you
Scary stuff. When we were in Cairo Jim had a serious tooth condition and we went to the US Embassy website for their list of recommended English speaking doctors.. it turned out to be a lifesaver with a fantastic dentist who’d trained at Boston U and, like with you, the exam, drugs, etc etc only cost $45. In spite of the hassle you do have to love the price!
Take care
Coming from the USA, inexpensive medical care is always a sweet surprise.
Getting sick in the middle of the night in your own country is terrible. I can’t imagine how you felt that night… So glad you are doing better and got it treated, and these lessons are really important ones for everyone to remember when traveling.
As I said above, we’ve learned our lesson. You will not be seeing another post like this from us. We will read this post before every adventure.
This is so scary! I had a similar experience in Tibet, and they actually tried to give me a used needle. I was unable to speak, but luckily had a friend with me to make sure I got a new clean needle — all we had to do was buy one in the pharmacy for less than $5. I feel for you, and am glad to hear you’re okay!
Unable to speak?! I want to hear your story.
There were no issues w/ needles, etc. I made sure – despite my wooziness – to watch all of that very closely.
Oh how horrible. I always seem to end up in hospitals around the world so I feel your trauma!! Stoked about the cheap prices. You don;t get that in America!!!
Hope you are all better now. It’s all a story to tell in the end
You always end up in Hospitals? We have lots to talk about in Toronto
Yowzers!! Glad that you are alright! The upswing of cheap medical care almost makes up for the scariness of not knowing what the heck is going on for most of the ordeal. Almost.
Almost.
Hope you’re feeling better!
Yes, I am. Thanks, Robin.
Oh gosh, getting sick in a place where people don’t speak the language you understand is a nightmare. But I’m glad you’re recovering now. Lessons learned (for you and your readers).
Now, if only we can keep from repeating those mistakes we’ll be in good shape!
This exact kind of scenario (or an injury) has been one of my bigger feels while traveling. A life threatening injury in a country where I don’t speak the language or they don’t have capable medical care… yikes. At least you are ok and it didn’t bankrupt you
I think that’s a fear that many people can relate to. It’s our worst fear when traveling. Thankfully, all turned out okay.
Ugh, that sounds terrible – I can’t imagine having to walk to a hospital feeling that sick…. and then having to navigate *everything* after that. I love that Caanan took photos of the whole process, though! “Look, and this is that time that you almost passed out in the streets of Shanghai while trying to find someone who speaks English!” =P
Do you have any idea how you caught the bacteria?
Caanan channeled his worrying into busying himself with picture taking – and you should see some of them. Scary. I’m trying to delete most, but he won’t let me. “It’s our history,” he says.
No idea how I caught it, but it makes me sick to imagine the possibilities.
That is my worst fear. I am so scared of what may come out of India. We are not prepared and as we speak to travelers who were very prepared still ended up catching nasty bacterias. It’s a very scary and tiring feeling. I am sorry you had to deal with all that. I am happy to hear you are doing better. Imagine if you were not already a healthy person, you may have been a lot worse off.
Yep, like my doctor said…. you can only do so much. Sometimes, you’re just going to be the unlucky one who gets a nasty virus/bacteria. Having said that, the two of us can be a lot better about washing our hands and Purell-ing.
Adventure. Whew! Glad to hear you are alright and alive and well. I wake up with a sore neck and an earache and think, shit, I’m dying. Of course, I wait it off, but still, I wait. Ooooof I’m an idiot. Good on you for getting it all together.
I don’t think it was as bad as the scare you had in Florida
I’m glad you are feeling better now. Such a bad experience. How’s China’s treating you nowadays? Get some Chinese herbs and you should be fine !
I remember the medicines were so cheap. I used to have a really bad cold and paid only $3 for a bag of herbs and pills. Be careful guys!
All better! When we went to the pharmacy (when I was in denial, acting like I had a cold), they tried to entice me with all sorts of tins of herbs, etc.
I am so happy you’re better!! Oh my gosh, that is awful. I’ve been to Shanghai, and I cannot imagine navigating its hospitals. Honestly, it never occurred to me to “scout resources” like a hospital ahead of time. You never really think you’ll have an emergency… Again, so happy you are healthy now!
Another benefit of having travel insurance is easier access to those types of resources. Watch for another post on just how “right on” our travel insurance company was.
This is my nightmare! I am shocked the hotel had no resources at all, most know a doctor who can even come on call – for a price.
I am so happy to hear you are better, I will learn from you!
Yes, the hotel situation was weird – especially since they advertise offering medical assistance. That’s yet another blog post.
Wow, I too am surprised how difficult it was to communicate and find help in such a major city. Wherever I am in Southeast Asia I know that if I am in serious (life threatening) condition, I am to be flown immediately to Bumungrad Hospital in Bangkok! But where I spent the year in Koh Tao there wasn’t a doctor, let alone a hospital. Just clinics with “nurses.” I saw some scary stuff happen there with the lack of medical care, and I’ll never take having it at the ready for granted again.
It’s always smart to have a good idea of what you’ll do if all hell breaks loose. Sometimes – especially when we’re in the middle of one of our big camping/hiking adventures – we’ll start to go down the “what if something goes wrong” road. At least we were in a city, even if it didn’t go too smoothly.
Oh my goodness! You poor thing! Of all places to be when something happens…I had a terrible time in China, too, with communication. It’s so frustrating, right? I guess we take it for granted that anywhere we go in the world, someone will speak our language…
I don’t think the language barrier gets a whole lot worse than in China. We don’t want to find out if it gets worse anywhere else
Glad to hear that you are alright now. It can be a hellish experience when we get ill during travels, especially in a foreign land.
Thanks, Arti.
Wow, good to hear you are well now. What a nightmare! Thanks for sharing this and reminding all travellers to think about health insurance and the more practical things related to health (language, resources, systems…) beforehand. Nobody ever talks about it.
Very true – and there’s more to this story that’ll come in future posts.
This sounds awful! Hope you’re feeling better.
I am!
UGH. That would make me so scared. Glad to know things are better now.
Thanks, Erica. Do you two have travel insurance?
That sounds absolutely awful! I’m so glad you did finally go find help and get treated. And how kind of Caanan to take all those photos of you while you were sick
And you should see some of the pictures. this post could have turned into a freak show!
Glad you’re better, but what a scare! When I was younger I didn’t worry so much about insurance, but now that I have a family and a young son, I’m focused on always having it, including medical evacuation assistance. Would love to hear which travel insurance companies/policies you’ve had a good experience with.
We had to switch providers recently but will write more about it in a future post (once we know all the details of our new insurer).