Happy in the Hutong
The smartest thing we did in Beijing was getting out of our posh hotel and moving into a traditional residential area. Sure, the fancy hotel had us about as close as we could be to the major tourist attractions, but it certainly didn’t give us an accurate feel for how the city pulses and moves.
So, after de-swankifying, we stayed in what is commonly referred to as a hutong. Technically, I guess, a hutong is simply the long street off of which you’ll find several narrow alleyways housing all sorts of interesting things. We stayed at a compact place – down one of those slim passageways – with 10 rooms centered around a small courtyard.
Staying in a hutong heightened our experience in Bejing. We were still only a long walk (or short metro ride) away from the major attractions, but we had the added advantage of being able to experience a different side of the city. Truthfully, we grew to enjoy spending time in the hutong far more than we did roaming around greater Beijing.
Getting to know a traditional residential area gave Bejing some personality. It gave warmth to a place that was starting to seem too overwhelming, and, of course, too smoggy.
We’d go on early morning walks to witness the sights, smells and sounds of the neighborhood coming to life – food vendors setting up shop, guys playing emotion-packed card games, clusters of kids heading to school and a woman who was very proud to show us her needle point.
We especially enjoyed the quiet and the view from our hotel’s rooftop patio, and people watching over a beer down on the street.
Things aren’t going entirely well in China. In the hutong, though, we were around happy people, and that made it easy for us to choose happy. And good thing, since that’s this month’s theme.
Nice, this looks like a more authentic experience. Can you book hutongs like regular hotels?
Great question. We’ve learned that foreigners (us included) commonly refer to their accommodation as a hutong. In fact, the hutong is only the “major” street filled with various off-shoots that house all sorts of shops, vendors, residents’ homes and, more recently, hotels. So, like us, you’ll want to stay at a hotel (or hostel, or whatever) within a hutong.
Sometimes getting off the beaten path is the most exciting. All the tourists can drive ya crazy! Glad you are enjoying Beijing!
In this case, it’s most exciting to see how people actually live. And there really is a certain level of happiness that’s exposed when you see people going about everyday things in their hood. Much more so than what you see in the full on hustle and bustle of the attraction-rich zone.
I hope that beer in the last photo has some alcohol in it. I know you’ve had issues with that in the past
Ha! That’s what we think every time one of us orders a beer. Is it non-alcoholic like in Prague. Trust me, we won’t let that happen again. Ah, good times.
Good move. More details though please. Want to hear MORE about what’s going not so well and what you DO like there.
Oh, you will… next post will be about our best day and the post after that will detail the end of the fun.
The hutongs were one of our most memorable places in China. Seeing everyday life of another culture is delightful. Enjoy your stay!
It is. It was great to have that “we got this right” feeling that doesn’t always happen when you travel.
I wish I had stayed in a Hutong when I was there. They are fast being bulldozed into oblivion so good that you guys have been able to experience this way of life in Beijing.
We’ve been reading bout that reality. How pathetic. Another questionable thing about this country. Hmmm, we better watch what the hell we say – at least until we get out of here.
Yes. You are looking happy. I am glad for you.
Thanks, Victor. Unfortunately, there’s another extreme that you’ll hear about in a future post.
I’m glad to hear you guys are *choosing* happy but hoping happy comes a little more naturally, too. : )
Yes, it comes A LOT more naturally for us. The term “choose happy” is part of a larger theme. We get a lot of “I want to be happy” e-mails from people. We let them know that oftentimes, you have to choose happy before it starts to come more naturally.
Plus, we’ve had some not-so-happy moments in China, so – yes – even we are having to choose happy ourselves
So glad you did this! When I traveled to China with 42 Boston students, ALL of them said their #1 favorite part of China was eating dinner with a family in a Hutong. Even better than the Great Wall! Check out their stories here if you have time: http://www.aroundtheworldl.com/category/learning/student-travel-stories/
Not surprising at all that they enjoyed the hutong experience so much. Clicking around the posts now.
I always seem to read your posts at the right time. The last line about choosing happy is something I need to do today. Everything I have tried to accomplish today has gone wrong, but I still have many things in my life to be happy about.
What went wrong? Anyone we need to beat up for you
I am back after a short hiatus and am going through your China posts!! It is a good thing that you landed up here. It is certainly better then a posh, swanky hotel!!
The hutong experience was “top 5″ in terms of our China visit.
You two never fail to inspire me. You’ve done it again. I think the fact that you are focusing on choosing happiness, and the fact that you recognized a place in which you could do that so well — this is why you are my zen gurus. XOXO
Thanks, Kirsten. We loved the vibe of the hutongs so were happy to make that a cornerstone of our time in Beijing.