Snap Judgement – 24 Hours in Beijing
We’ve made it from Maui to China!
With only a short stopover and an airline change in Seattle, we didn’t have much time to talk about the specifics of our adventure in China. Sitting at the airport – and continuing on throughout the 12 hour flight – we read through a lot of the things we had downloaded and tips we had been given by friends. We also talked about the different opinions that people have shared with us about China. In our experience, no single place arouses such differences in opinion. We have heard from several well-seasoned travelers that China is, by far, their least favorite country. Others have said that the food alone makes it a favorite destination.
Before landing, we decided that, once on the ground, we’d pay close attention to our first impressions. Unfiltered first impressions.
So, we haven’t been here long – just about 24 hours of running around – but following are those initial thoughts.
Not So Well(ness).
Let’s get this out of the way right up front. This place is smog infested, and it’s as bad as you’ve heard. This picture was taken mid-afternoon. That’s the sun trying to poke through the smog.
Sadly, this has been a “good” smog day (according to people we’ve talked to). The poor air quality has quickly snapped us out of the blissed-out zone we were in on Maui. It’s such a contradiction that this bastion of acupuncture, herbal medicine, tai chi, etc. is so hard on the lungs and body. After only a day, we’re feeling it.
100% World Class.
Before arriving, we knew enough to know that Beijing would be a top-notch city. We have to admit, though, that we weren’t expecting to find one of the most beautiful rooms and some of the best service we’ve ever encountered at our first hotel. We’re staying in three different areas around the city so are excited to see what our other accommodation experiences bring.
And now, the other reality.
This is what is right outside the curtained window on the other side of that bed in the above picture. A top hotel right next to some much less stellar living conditions. We’ll be seeing a lot more of this, I’m sure.
Foodie Heaven.
Our food journey is off to a great start. Check out this dish – tofu, vegetables and a senses-arousing sweet and sour sauce. We look forward to many more meals like this – but we’re asking the food gods for firmer tofu.
Patience required.
When we went out to grab a taxi at the airport, we found a line of about 500 people. Within an hour, we witnessed 3 kids shitting on the road. People smoke everywhere. Minutes ago, a young couple approached us with the notorious “tea scam” that’s so common here.
Despite all of that, we’re finding the general vibe to be quite calm. People are friendly, and they move at a mostly sane pace. That’s not what we were expecting.
We’re going to have to summon a lot of patience, but things are looking good so far.
Next up, we’re moving from our upscale hotel to a hutong for an up-close view of how locals live.
A mob of my family have just been out in China for a cousin’s wedding. I couldn’t make it sadly so it’s interesting to read about (I haven’t spoken to any of them yet). The wedding was in Shanghai although I know some of them went on to Beijing for a look. I wonder what the differences they found were.
I think you need to be prepared for a lot of stories when they return! Our travel journals are filling up fast with all of our thoughts.
It’s a long time since I’ve been to Beijing, but would recommend the famous vegetarian restaurant which was originally set up by monks. Not sure of the exact address, but sure you can find it – it’s off one of the roads from Tiananmen…
Just looked up the restaurant for you, it’s definitely worth a visit. It’s the Gong De Lin at 158 Quianmen Lu. Dishes include ‘Peacock in pride’ and ‘the fire is singeing the snow capped mountains’! Even after 20 years, I still remember their delicious sweet and sour ‘fish’ (made from potatoes). Go try it!
Thank you, Carolyne – appreciate that you took the time.
I love the observations we are able to make after just 24 hours being in a place – because most of the time they are completely different from what we were imagining things to be like in our heads. I spent 1 month in China, and though I’ve only been to a small southern portion, it was one of best places I’ve been. Yes, patience definitely required.
We decided on this theme because we realized that – over time – you get used to things and certain observations fall away from your mind.
For instance, I’m sure – by the end of our time here – that people smoking everywhere will seem like a reality not worth mentioning. However, upon arrival, it makes a HUGE impact to see a smoke hanging out of nearly every mouth. We wanted to record some of these things.
NOTE: We could go for seeing less pooping
I didn’t know Beijing had a smog problem but I guess that makes sense. That’s a bummer. I just read up on that tea scam – how devious. I’d be tempted to try to scam the scammers.
The smog is disturbing. It is a total game changer – you can actually feel the impact when you’re wandering around.
And had you not heard of the tea scam. it’s awful, just awful. Details when we see you.
How smart to make a point of recording your initial impressions. I want to remember to do that next time I visit a place.
I think seeing someone crapping in the road, however, would probably have made the biggest impression on me and my delicate sensibilities.
Like I was saying to Mark (above), sometimes our initial thoughts get diluted.
Our introduction to the pooping was bad. It involved a sick toddler being hung over the edge of the sidewalk. We stood by in absolute shock.
Enjoy! We spent 3 weeks in China nearly a decade ago and would love to go back. We, too, constantly battled the pollution (we were also there in the fall and the burning of the fields, etc in the countryside makes it nearly unbearable) and loved the food of Beijing… not so much many of the other areas we visited but you certainly need to give them credit for utilizing everything! Can’t wait to hear more… the history, Great Wall, and people are amazing!
We’ve had a lot of help on the food front. Lots of great people have provided us with all sorts of resources so that we order the “right” things (and not, for example, cow brains). As we spend more and more time here, the food is really becoming a huge highlight and giving us a positive focus in the midst of some less than ideal elements.
Sounds like a place that jars the senses with contradictions. Can’t wait to see what the rest of the trip holds for you.
Contradictions abound. We’ve learned so much already.
What is the tea scam?
I think we need to write an entire post. Although it’s never happened successfully to us (only attempts!).
It’s where locals approach you and are VERY friendly. After chatting for some time, they’ll typically invite you to enjoy some tea or coffee. What happens at that point – if you go – varies, but it usually involves a very high bill for the tea or coffee.
Hm… very controversially. I think I don’t want to visit Chine right now. The world has so many wonderful places to see without Chine.
We’d love to hear more about your thoughts.
Well, that’s the first I’ve heard about people shitting on the street in Beijing. Keep the observations coming
You can count on it!
I’ll be very curious to hear more about your impressions of China! I’ve been twice in a year, the second time with 42 Boston students, so if you have a moment, check out and comment on any of their resulting articles: http://www.aroundtheworldl.com/category/learning/student-travel-stories/ !
People pooping in the road?
Come on guys, whatever happened to ‘doing as the Romans do’?
Or should that be ‘doing as the Roman’s do-do’?
So far, just kids. But that insanity has been eclipsed by seeing chickens killed/sold on the street.
I bet the hutong is going to be an interesting experience – looking forward to reading about that! The food sounds amazing. My partner went to Beijing earlier in the year, and adored the food there – although he had the exact same complaints about the smog.
I’ll be keeping my fingers crossed for firmer tofu for the two of you as well.
You picked a good time to come – it’s Mid-Autumn festival this week so the city is half empty.
fwiw: I’ve lived in Beijing for two years now and the pollution is nowhere near as bad as it’s made out to be – as long as there’s a slight breeze there are often clear blue skies anywhere beyond the second ring road.
We were waiting for a comment like this. Coming from Seattle – one of the greenest cities in the world – we’ve had to admit to ourselves that we may be overly harshly assessing the smog.
Having said that, reports don’t support your “nowhere near as bad as it’s made out to be” claim either. We just learned that the government run media is just now starting to report that the “fog” (as it’s been reported) is actually smog. Free press anyone?
Thats a crisp post!! The hotel room looks beautiful. But the view from the window is so much like India!!
The nice hotels here are nice nice. It’s been a big surprise to see.
Takes me back a bit. My first few hours in Beijing were frantic. Straight from the airport to Beijing West train station to catch my group and training as a tour leader. Have never looked back.
Enjoy your trip
Thanks, Ian – we’ve been all over the map so far. Lots of great (mostly food!) with some horrible tossed in (watch for details in future posts!).
Yes, China is wild like that. I’m so glad you like the food. Can’t wait to hear more! I’ve been to Shanghai, and my brother lives a few hours north of Hong Kong, but I’ve never been to Beijing.
Did you tour the skyscrapers?
There are a lot of reasons I’d like to go to China someday, but a lot of reasons I hesitate as well, most of which you’ve mentioned here. I got a sinus infection (I’m prone to them anyway) from all the smog and pollution in Hanoi last year, so I can only imagine this was worse. I am very interested to try real Chinese food though. Oh, and the shitting on the road stuff, that’s insane. I’ve heard it so many times from people who have been there, but I think I’d still be horrified to see it in person.
Oh, wait until you read our most recent post.